How Car Repair Labor Charges are Determined

Introduction

No one likes surprises when it comes time to pay for automotive repair service. There are things a consumer can do to avoid these surprises. The first thing is to educate yourself in how repair charges are established beforehand and then make a decision of where to have your repair work done. The basis of the repair charge to repair your vehicle includes the following:

1. Diagnostic Charge – To diagnose the root cause of an electrical or driveability complaint will require the automotive technician or mechanic to diagnose the issue. Because it takes some time to conduct this activity, there usually is a diagnostic charge to do so according to the labor charge of the shop.
Note: An automotive technician and an automotive mechanic are not necessarily one and the same. An automotive technician is generally one who is factory trained for diagnosis on a specific area(s) of the vehicle and is usually the same brand.
An automotive mechanic is one who knows the mechanics of an automobile and can repair multiple brands (makes). The person may or may not be knowledgeable of the diagnostic procedures of the automotive computer systems. Someone can have the skills to be an automotive technician and mechanic. A master tech or master mechanic is a very knowledgeable person.

2. Flat Rate Charge – The method for determining the labor charge of dealers and many other independent shops is based on the Flat Rate Labor Guide that says how long a specific repair job should take. Depending on what the shop labor rate is, multiplied by the flat rate hours will give you the charge for the labor alone to repair the vehicle. For example, if the Flat Rate Labor Guide says it takes 2 hours to replace a water pump @ $90.00 per flat rate hour, and then the labor charge would be $180.00 (not including any diagnostic charge and charges for the water pump.)
However, if the mechanic can replace the water pump in 1 hour, the charge under the flat rate system would still be $180.00. The benefit of replacing the water pump in one hour instead of two hours goes to the mechanic. Check your local library for a Chilton or Motor Labor Flat Rate Guide (for the year of your vehicle) and look up the flat rate time to see what the amount of time it should take for doing the job you’re interested in.
With this information, you can calculate the flat rate time with the shop’s flat rate charge plus the parts and diagnostic charges. This amount will put you somewhere in the ballpark as far as the price you reasonable should be charged. However, if the repair estimate of a shop is in the stratosphere, find out why or go to another shop BEFORE any work is started. You should be informed along the way before additional work is performed with an estimate of what is the expected cost to complete the job.

3. Parts Charge – The parts cost will usually be at a retail price and higher than what you can purchase by price shopping. Many repair shops will not install parts that you bring to them unless you have a good relationship with the shop. They can also quote you the best price from their suppliers. This is a benefit to having a specific shop that you deal with consistently where they may reward you for your loyalty. Be sure to sign up for any rewards program the shop may have.

Conclusion
Labor charges are not cheap, especially with the sophisticated nature of today's vehicles. However, by having knowledge of what comprises a repair estimate, you can determine what the hourly labor rate is for a particular shop and by using a Flat Rate Labor Guide you can learn how much time a repair take. Combined with the labor rate you can come somewhere in the ballpark of the repair cost.
If the estimate of a particular shop far exceeds what you have researched, then you'll have the knowledge to know to find another shop.

How to Find a Good Automotive Repair Shop and Good Technician

Introduction

Preparation is the key to developing a successful relationship with a good repair facility and technician. This involves identifying if you intend to have a dealership to maintain your vehicle or if you want to have a combination of a dealership and independent repair shop or to have all of your automotive work done by an independent repair shop.

Locating a Good Repair Facility

·         Seek word-of-mouth references, read online reviews such as www.yelp.com, www.angieslist.com, Google reviews, etc.

·         Contact the Better Business Bureau™ for complaints – www.bbb.com (Note: Discern the validity of all reviews and use your discernment.)

·         Call the shop and assess how the person greeted you. Locate a shop that employs ASE technicians.

·          Verify if their mechanics are ASE (Institute for Automotive Service Excellence) certified, a Master certification is preferable. Ask to see their certifications. http://www.ase.com/Landing-Pages/Car-Owners/Find-a-Repair-Shop/Shop-Locator.aspx

·         It is not a legal requirement for a technician to be ASE certified, they can be factory certified or not certified at all (pending the requirement of your state.) Competency is the key.

·         If a shop is replacing multiple parts in hopes of replacing the faulty one, the question is, “at whose expense” if a part is replaced but didn’t correct the problem?”

·         Determine if the problem is common for your vehicle model and year. Surfing the web is helpful in this regard, just type in the search box your problem with year/make/model. If you’re not computer savvy have someone do it for you such as a family member or your local librarian at the reference desk. Avoid “throwing good money after bad” which means beware of spending money on top of money by approving additional work. Cut your losses early if you feel the shop is incompetent.

Conclusion

Businesses are in business to make money and to do so as quickly as possible. Reputable businesses are built on being paid a reasonable amount in exchange for the services they provide.

If you’re short on cash to repair your vehicle, humble yourself with the service provider, explain your situation and work out something to get the job done within your budget or ask them what they can recommend for you. Use your discernment if it’s good advice.

I’ve been there before and found that some shops will work with you to help you out. Ask to speak to the service manager and negotiate any price adjustment with that person because they have the authority to adjust the price. The main thing is to not worry yourself about your car; you can own it on the cheap and still take care of it. 

Breaking News: New eBook Published- Titled: "How to Own a Car on the Cheap (without sacrificing quality)"

BREAKING NEWS!
The ebook entitled:
"How to Own a Car on the Cheap (without sacrificing quality)" is now available for purchase.
Here is the purchase link: https://payhip.com/b/A9i2

Price: $5.99 

Length is 45 pages in PDF Format 
To view the first 5 pages, click on the link, then click preview

Table of Contents:

Introduction
The Truth about Vehicle Tune-ups
The Secret of Vehicle Longevity - Part 1
The Secret of Vehicle Longevity - Part 2
The Check Engine Light
When to Repair Your Vehicle
How Labor and Repair Charges are Determined
Is Buying a Certified Used Vehicle Cost Effective?
Factory or Aftermarket Parts?
Do and Don't List 
Do It Yourself Section
Automobile Resources Websites
Manufacturer Main Websites
Manufacturer Technical Websites
Additional Repair Information
Real Life Scenarios
Questions and Answer Section
Recurring Vehicle Issues
The Lemon Law
Safety Advice
Summary
Concluding Thoughts
About the Author                             
                  
This book is written for the layperson who may know little about a car but want to obtain sufficient knowledge to save literally hundreds to thousands of dollars by making informed automotive decisions.

How to repair a vehicle when it hasn't been repaired by repair shops

A. Introduction:

To resolve any automotive problem that is elusive to resolve, there are some facts that must be established.

You’ll have to put on your analytical hat and play the role of Colombo to assist in the repair of your vehicle.

B. General Facts:

1. Design intent-

Components and their systems are designed to perform a certain task, either by themselves or work in conjunction with another system.  Therefore a failure in one system can also manifest itself in another system.

2. Cause and Effect-

‘Cause and effect’ dictates that when there is a component or system abnormality, there will be corresponding evidence of this condition.

For example, if your car’s alternator regulator is allowing the alternator to charge excessively (cause), your car’s battery top surface will have a lot of wetness and the battery posts may be covered with a powdery substance (effect).

3. Questions-

Many questions must be asked concerning the nature of the problem and the status of relating items during the time before, during, and after the occurrence of the abnormality.

Note: Intermittent problems are the most difficult to resolve. Often it is better for a component to fail completely (except for components effecting safety) than to operate periodically.

C. Root Cause Areas-

Now let’s get to the nitty gritty of identifying the source of the problem.

First, we’ll categorize which stage the problem originated.

For almost all problems they will likely originate in one or more of the following areas:

1. Poor design – If the design of a component or system is faulty, it is only a matter of time or condition that there may be a malfunction. In this case, if you search the internet, you will find many other vehicles with the same problem.

2. Inferior materials – If the design is good but the material is bad (to reduce costs), it is only a matter of time or condition that there may be a malfunction.  In this case, you’ll likely to find many others with the same problem.

3. Manufacturing errors – The hope is that at least the manufacturer did everything right and the source of the problem is elsewhere.  Well, things go wrong at the factory and the problem travels with the vehicle to the awaiting customer to experience the malfunction and return to the dealer.

Here are some problems that can occur at the factory:

·        Inexperience workers – When new employees are hired, they must be trained to perform their tasks to the level that is expected. There is a learning curve for the workers and unfortunately some of their parts may be sub-standard and find their way onto the vehicle.  Depending on the severity of the error, the result can range from being unnoticed by the customer to complete engine shutdown.

·        Meeting production numbers – Time is money.  If the production numbers are insufficient and upper management is applying pressure to increase the production numbers, the result may be some vehicles will just have to be shipped with the problem and let the dealer repair it under warranty.

·        Neglect of material storage conditions – Some materials must be kept at certain temperatures, humidity, lighting, etc. For example, steel will begin to oxidize (rust) in the presence of moisture (rain).

·        Contamination – In the above example, if a steel surface such as a hood has contaminates on it, there will be poor adhesion of the paint. In time, the paint will remove from the surface and start peeling away.  If certain chemicals are not mixed in the proper proportions, the end result will be a compromise in the integrity of the part, thus, possible premature failure.

·        Safety – Last but not least is the safety of the worker, if he/she is injured and continues to work, not only is the worker re-injuring themselves but also their attention is diverted to their injury and the task of the job may be compromised.

4.  Pre-shipping damage – After production, vehicles are sitting in the lot waiting to be loaded on a transport truck or train. During this time, there is the possibility of damage from hail, bird droppings (acidic), door dings, etc.

5. Shipping damage – There is significant potential of damage from the shipping process. For example, if the hold down chains is improperly fastened it can damage the suspension system.

6. Post shipping damage – After the vehicle has been safely transported to its destination, at this point damage can occur due to inappropriate handling such as being driven hard if it’s a sports car, accidents on the premises, or in extreme cases vandalism.

7. Installation damage – Installing non-factory equipment can be a source of problems. Equipment that wasn’t designed or approved by the manufacturer can present problems that ordinarily would not occur.  For example, replacing factory wheels with wheels that are over-sized can result in the tires rubbing the wheel well under certain road surfaces and can render the speedometer and odometer inaccurate.

Non-standard electrical equipment can cause increased amperage in circuits and effect the proper operation of other electrical components.

D. Putting it all together to solve your problem

1. Confirmation

Confirm that you have a problem and if it can or cannot be duplicated. Some “problems” can be attributed to operator error.  Be sure to read the owner’s manual relating to the appropriate component.

2. Duplication

An important aspect of resolving a problem is whether or not it can be duplicated. If it can be duplicated, great; now it’s just a matter of diagnosis to locate the root cause and repair the problem.

If it cannot be duplicated, you will have to “paint a picture” by keeping good records of when the problem occurs and the conditions surrounding the occurence such as: climatic conditions and which devices were working at the time(air conditioning on/off, lights on/off, during turning, etc.)

3. Before or after an installation or repair/service

If the problem started after an installation of something or the vehicle was in for repair or servicing, then possibly it may be the result of something being accidently disconnected (wire connector, vacuum hose, etc.)

Do a visual inspection and see if you can determine if something looks obviously disconnected.

4. Problem occurred after you did something

Sometimes problems occur that are directly related to something the owner or another person did. Question any other person who may also have driven the vehicle.

5. What is your ‘Gut feeling’ the problem is?

Just use your common sense and intuition about the problem and what it seems to be. Afterwards, communicate this information to your technician.

Conclusion

For every problem there is a solution, sometimes the solution is obvious such as a dead battery or not so obvious such as a lamp that stays on and goes undetected.

The solution is to put on your detective hat and observe carefully what is or is not happening. Your information given to a competent technician and repair shop should help to resolve your problem.

Be sure to investigate your problem by determining if others

experience the same problems using the internet as a source of information.

One last tip, be sure to keep an electronic ignition key away from any source of magnetism or electrical wires. Live electrical wires have a magnetic field around them. Magnets obviously have a magnetic field them which can corrupt the program in your electronic ignition key thus creating a weird operating or non-operating condition.

If you suspect this is the case with your electronic ignition key, have it reprogrammed at a dealer or a Locksmith shop equipped to reprogram ignition keys.

That’s it for now.

Next topic: How to find a good automotive repair shop and good technician?

Is Buying a Certified Used Vehicle Worth It?

First, lets define what a certified used vehicle is:

A certified used vehicle is one that:

• The original manufacturer warrants the vehicle.
• Has low mileage, usually under 50,000 miles.
• One hundred plus inspection points and any problems corrected.
• Has a warranty that extends beyond the original warranty.
• Vehicle is usually less than 3 years old.

Types of Certified Pre-Owned car (CPO) or Certified used car:

1. Manufacturer Certified Used Car

Includes a national warranty supported by the original manufacturer and has a 100+ inspection with parts replaced that does not meet factory specifications.  The original purchase date starts the warranty period.  An authorized dealership will repair work during the warranty period.

2. Dealer Certified Used Car

Includes a warranty supported by the dealership that sold the vehicle.  It may or may not provide warranty work at a repair facility that is not the original dealership.  Therefore, if your vehicle breaks down cross-country, you will have to ship it back to the original dealership unless the contract allows an independent repair shop to perform the repair service.

Pros of certified used vehicles

• Customer has an affordable alternative to a new vehicle purchase.
• The manufacturer and/or dealer support the warranty of a used vehicle.
• Provides the customer with assurance the vehicle does not have any problems.

Cons of certified used vehicles

• The cost is more than a private party.
• Customer service only as good as the dealership providing the service.
• Actual "in use" vehicle history of previous owner is unknown.
• The price may not be lower than a comparable new vehicle.
• You may forfeit the depreciation cost.

Conclusion

Is buying a certified used vehicle worth it?  That depends on the availability of the model(s) you choose and the price.

Compare the price differences between a new vehicle, private party vehicle and the certified used vehicle, then decide for yourself.  However, it is best to have an automotive consultant or mechanic to advise and inspect the vehicle before purchasing, (even if it is a certified vehicle.)

Maximum value in purchasing a used vehicle

You can save a significant amount of money by using the following method:

• Research on the internet the actual vehicles you may want. 
• Try to find vehicles from private parties with supporting maintenance and repair records.
• Have the vehicle inspected by an automotive service consultant and/or a competent mechanic before purchasing. 
• Always inspect a vehicle in the daylight; dusk, or nighttime can hide many flaws.
• Purchase an extended warranty from a credible company using the internet reviews.

Next topic:

How to help determine the root cause of your vehicle's problem when repair shops cannot determine the problem.

Update:

I have started my own automotive consulting company to provide you with automotive information to save you money in purchasing, maintaining, and repairing your vehicle.
The following services are provided:

• On-site used vehicle pre-purchase inspections.
• Do-it-yourself used vehicle inspection (must bring to Moreno Valley).
• Assistance in selling your used vehicle for the maximum selling price.
• Automotive consultation by email
• Vehicle location service to locate the vehicle of your choice 
• Negotiation service to purchase used vehicle or reduce repair price
• Stranded vehicle transportation service
• Discount parts prices through local part departments

For service, please contact me at:

Premier Car Inspection Services

Alston Gray

owningacaronthecheap@yahoo.com

What is a "Check Engine Light" and what to do if it comes on

The Check Engine Light

A. What is the Check Engine Light?

The “Check Engine Light”  

was originally named the “Malfunction Indicator Light.”

Some vehicles may have the words “Service Engine Soon” instead of the “Check Engine Light.”

Self-Check- Once the ignition key is turned to the “on” position (engine off), all of the instrument panel lights should come on, including the “Check Engine Light.”  This checks the bulb and diagnosis circuitry operation.  The Check Engine Light should go out (turn off) after about 10 seconds or less.  Once the vehicle starts, all of the lights should turn off.

B. Purpose

The purpose of the “Check Engine Light” is to alert the driver that an emission control device on the vehicle is not operating correctly.  If the malfunction is serious, that is, if the engine is misfiring for example, the light may flash, otherwise it will remain lit (on).

C. History

The California Air Resources Board (CARB) required all new vehicles to have an On-board Diagnosis system (OBDII) installed to monitor the proper operation of emission control components.  This started with the 1996 model year and adopted by the US Environmental Protection Agency to apply to all new vehicles sold in the US.

Requirements:

There were specific requirements to meet OBDII standards, some were:

·         A standardized connector located under the dashboard on the driver’s side of the vehicle within 2 feet of the steering wheel (unless a waiver was granted.)

·          Vehicle manufacturers provide standardized Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) indicating a malfunction.

·         Devices to control emissions is monitored and alert the driver if a malfunction is detected by turning on a Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) that is also known as a “Check Engine Light.”

·         If there is a malfunction, the OBD II system has the capability to store the fault into the PCM (engine computer) memory for retrieval by a scan (diagnostic) tool.

·         After a certain number of start cycles, if the fault does not continue, the check engine light will turn off.

D.  What to do if it comes on

·         If the check engine light is flashing, this indicates a failure of an emission control component or engine misfire.  If the vehicle drive ability is normal, do not panic, just drive home and have it checked out as soon as possible.

·         If you continue to drive with a flashing check engine light, the worst-case scenario is you may have to replace your exhaust catalytic converter, which can cost over $1,000.  If you converter needs to be replaced and you cannot afford a new one, buy a used one from the automotive junk (salvage) yard.

·         If the check engine light is on steady and the vehicle is running normally, do not panic, just drive home and have it checked out as soon as possible. 

·         If the vehicle is not driving normally but if it can be driven safely, drive it home and have it checked out as soon as possible.

·         If the vehicle is not driving normally and cannot be driven, home safely, have it repaired on location by a mobile mechanic (locate on internet or yellow pages) or have it transported to a repair facility, preferably on a flatbed transport truck.

E.  Conclusion

The Check Engine Light is not a diagnostic light to reveal internal engine damage but rather to reveal faulty components that will effect emissions. 

Therefore, do not panic when the “Check Engine Light” comes on, it is only alerting you to this reality.  Three different vehicle scenarios can occur when the check engine light comes on:

1.    The vehicle shuts off:  Transport it to a repair facility.

2.    The vehicle runs rough, has low power or runs bad: Drive the vehicle safely to the repair facility or have it transported

3.    The vehicle drives normal: This is a less serious condition and a matter of a sensor malfunctioning or something preventing a normal operating condition.  Identify and correct the cause to prevent damage to the catalytic converter.

For Do-It-Yourselfers or willing to be DIY’ers, you can purchase an easy to use check engine light reader with full instructions and systematic support from this location http://www.carmd.com/

Next topic:  Is buying a certified used vehicle worth it?

What is a Tune-Up?

A tune-up is a maintenance procedure to maintain an optimum operating condition at maximum efficiency through adjustments and parts replacement.

For today’s vehicles, the term is a misnomer and used for marketing purposes in generating revenue for automotive repair businesses.  The “tune-up” procedure is eliminated, but to keep the term “alive,” certain procedures are recommended by service facilities, but not the manufacturer.

Computers have replaced almost all of the parts and makes adjustments to air-fuel ratios, ignition timing, and idle speed that formerly was performed during a tune-up of pre-1996 model vehicles.   The only parts remaining on current vehicles to be replaced during a “tune-up” are spark plugs, air filter and pcv valve.  For some cars: the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires (if needed).

The terms “tune-up” and “scheduled maintenance” are not the same.  The previous “tune-up” has been replaced with a “scheduled maintenance” procedure.

Scheduled Maintenance

In the case of a “schedule maintenance” procedure,  the oil and filter are replaced, tires rotated, and certain bolts are checked for tightness.  If the vehicle is equipped with a “cabin filter” (filters the inside air) it may be replaced if necessary.  Money is saved by purchasing it from the parts department and installing it yourself, if you are so inclined.  It usually is located behind the glove box.

The rest of the “required” items are inspection for wear.  This is a good opportunity for service facilities to promote “recommended services” such as various flushes, which are not “required” by the manufacturer and sometimes “forbidden.”  Some vehicles require specific fluids that the service facility may not have, thus, jeopardizing the proper operation of the component.

In the case of high mileage vehicles, a transmission flush is not recommended because the new transmission fluid will have new additives which can break down the adhesive bonding of the clutch disks to the clutch plates resulting in the transmission slipping or other transmission failure after a few thousand miles.  In addition, there is a good possibility that particles will find their way into the valve body causing shift valves to stick.  If the transmission is operating normally, let it continue to do so, just make sure the transmission fluid level is correct and if necessary, add the correct fluid type required by the manufacturer.

Important Tip:

After an oil change, it is best to check the engine oil level to confirm the drain plug, oil filter was tightened, and the oil cap reinstalled as not to leak.  If this is intimidating, at least check for leaks on the ground under where the vehicle was parked.  If you find fresh oil on the ground and you suspect it is coming from your vehicle, return the vehicle promptly to the service facility.  If your vehicle is leaking oil, eventually it will leak low enough for the engine to encounter oil starvation and you could lose your engine by it seizing up.

Tune-up Maintenance 

When the mileage or time frame has arrived for parts such as spark plugs to be replaced, service facilities will take the opportunity to recommend that your vehicle needs a “tune-up” which actually is replacing the spark plugs, pcv valve, air filter, oil/oil filter change and rotating the tires.

The term “major tune-up” implies a higher level “tune-up” when actually its an opportunity to promote a fuel injector cleaning, coolant, transmission, power steering and brake flushes.

Let’s examine these items:

Fuel injector cleaning:  The objective is to run a strong cleaning solvent through the fuel injectors to clean the orifices to ensure a good spray pattern.  Actually, fuel cleaning detergent additives is blended in fuels and the cleaning can be accomplished by using a can of Chevron Techron and using it with a full tank of gas according to the instructions.  Furthermore, the manufacturer does not require a fuel system flush.  However, if a fuel injector is clogged, a fuel injector cleaning would help unclog it.

Coolant flush: The coolant used by manufacturers is an extended long-life type and does not require frequent changing.  On older vehicles, the pressure from a coolant flush could possibly cause problems such as causing the heater core to start leaking.  The manufacturer usually does not require a coolant flush.

Power Steering flush: This is an unnecessary expense for most cars and could cause steering problems if air is not completely purged from the system after a flush.  However, if you have a jerky motion when turning the steering wheel or a whining noise that increases with an increase in engine speed, a power steering flush may help before you commence to replacing the power steering pump.  Manufacturers do not require it and some cars have electric power steering, which does not have power steering fluid, thus nothing to flush.

Brake fluid flush:  This one flush is a good deal after the vehicle is 5 years old due to moisture entering the brake system through humidity.  Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means that it absorbs moisture, which is bad for the braking system because it lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid and compromises braking action.  Ideally the system should remain closed.

None of these service procedures the manufacturer requires, therefore, it is a “recommended” service promoted by the service facility and not “required” by the manufacturer.

Things that may not be in your scheduled maintenance book:

• ·         Battery cables and post cleaning (if battery is disconnected, make sure a supplemental battery source is connected to keep various memory settings).

• ·         Battery top cleaning

• ·         Battery hold down secure (keeps the battery from moving)

• ·         Alternator regulator over-charging which will produce excess charging gas, shorten the life of the battery and moisten the top of the battery with battery acid and form corrosion on the battery posts.

• ·         Windshield washer nozzle aim (sometimes the water spray will go over the roof)

• ·         Air conditioning water drain hose is draining properly (or water may come on your passenger side carpet area)

• ·         Headlamps, tail lamps, turn signals, back up lights, license plate lights, dome light(s) and side marker lamps are working.

• ·         Water pump vent hole coolant leakage inspection

• ·         Horn operation.

• ·         Spare tire pressure check.

• ·         All fluid level inspection, leaks, and unacceptable wiring routing or interference contact (wires, hoses rubbing).

Conclusion:

The main objective of performing scheduled maintenance is to prevent component failure or poor vehicle performance due to neglect.

Keep in mind, even with performing schedule maintenance and doing everything correct, there still can be component failure or poor vehicle performance.  There may be possible design flaws, manufacturing errors or damage occurring during transportation.

Before purchasing any vehicle, it is advisable to do your due diligence and research known issues to the vehicle you are considering.  You can do this by using a search engine such as Google.  Enter the year, make, model and add reviews and forums in the search field. 

For example: 2012 Toyota Camry reviews and forums then push the Enter button.

This will give results from professional vehicle evaluators and forums where people are discussing the model you entered.  You can also do a search for recalls, technical service bulletins, fuel economy, crash data, etc.

Here are some links to automotive websites that have a wealth of information

Edmunds.com:  http://www.edmunds.com/

Kelly Blue Book: http://www.kbb.com/

The Car Show:  http://www.thecarshow.com/index.htm

Car Talk:  http://www.cartalk.com/

The next topic is: The Purpose of the Check Engine Light, and what to do if it comes on.