What is a "Check Engine Light" and what to do if it comes on

The Check Engine Light

A. What is the Check Engine Light?

The “Check Engine Light”  

was originally named the “Malfunction Indicator Light.”

Some vehicles may have the words “Service Engine Soon” instead of the “Check Engine Light.”

Self-Check- Once the ignition key is turned to the “on” position (engine off), all of the instrument panel lights should come on, including the “Check Engine Light.”  This checks the bulb and diagnosis circuitry operation.  The Check Engine Light should go out (turn off) after about 10 seconds or less.  Once the vehicle starts, all of the lights should turn off.

B. Purpose

The purpose of the “Check Engine Light” is to alert the driver that an emission control device on the vehicle is not operating correctly.  If the malfunction is serious, that is, if the engine is misfiring for example, the light may flash, otherwise it will remain lit (on).

C. History

The California Air Resources Board (CARB) required all new vehicles to have an On-board Diagnosis system (OBDII) installed to monitor the proper operation of emission control components.  This started with the 1996 model year and adopted by the US Environmental Protection Agency to apply to all new vehicles sold in the US.

Requirements:

There were specific requirements to meet OBDII standards, some were:

·         A standardized connector located under the dashboard on the driver’s side of the vehicle within 2 feet of the steering wheel (unless a waiver was granted.)

·          Vehicle manufacturers provide standardized Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) indicating a malfunction.

·         Devices to control emissions is monitored and alert the driver if a malfunction is detected by turning on a Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) that is also known as a “Check Engine Light.”

·         If there is a malfunction, the OBD II system has the capability to store the fault into the PCM (engine computer) memory for retrieval by a scan (diagnostic) tool.

·         After a certain number of start cycles, if the fault does not continue, the check engine light will turn off.

D.  What to do if it comes on

·         If the check engine light is flashing, this indicates a failure of an emission control component or engine misfire.  If the vehicle drive ability is normal, do not panic, just drive home and have it checked out as soon as possible.

·         If you continue to drive with a flashing check engine light, the worst-case scenario is you may have to replace your exhaust catalytic converter, which can cost over $1,000.  If you converter needs to be replaced and you cannot afford a new one, buy a used one from the automotive junk (salvage) yard.

·         If the check engine light is on steady and the vehicle is running normally, do not panic, just drive home and have it checked out as soon as possible. 

·         If the vehicle is not driving normally but if it can be driven safely, drive it home and have it checked out as soon as possible.

·         If the vehicle is not driving normally and cannot be driven, home safely, have it repaired on location by a mobile mechanic (locate on internet or yellow pages) or have it transported to a repair facility, preferably on a flatbed transport truck.

E.  Conclusion

The Check Engine Light is not a diagnostic light to reveal internal engine damage but rather to reveal faulty components that will effect emissions. 

Therefore, do not panic when the “Check Engine Light” comes on, it is only alerting you to this reality.  Three different vehicle scenarios can occur when the check engine light comes on:

1.    The vehicle shuts off:  Transport it to a repair facility.

2.    The vehicle runs rough, has low power or runs bad: Drive the vehicle safely to the repair facility or have it transported

3.    The vehicle drives normal: This is a less serious condition and a matter of a sensor malfunctioning or something preventing a normal operating condition.  Identify and correct the cause to prevent damage to the catalytic converter.

For Do-It-Yourselfers or willing to be DIY’ers, you can purchase an easy to use check engine light reader with full instructions and systematic support from this location http://www.carmd.com/

Next topic:  Is buying a certified used vehicle worth it?

What is a Tune-Up?

A tune-up is a maintenance procedure to maintain an optimum operating condition at maximum efficiency through adjustments and parts replacement.

For today’s vehicles, the term is a misnomer and used for marketing purposes in generating revenue for automotive repair businesses.  The “tune-up” procedure is eliminated, but to keep the term “alive,” certain procedures are recommended by service facilities, but not the manufacturer.

Computers have replaced almost all of the parts and makes adjustments to air-fuel ratios, ignition timing, and idle speed that formerly was performed during a tune-up of pre-1996 model vehicles.   The only parts remaining on current vehicles to be replaced during a “tune-up” are spark plugs, air filter and pcv valve.  For some cars: the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires (if needed).

The terms “tune-up” and “scheduled maintenance” are not the same.  The previous “tune-up” has been replaced with a “scheduled maintenance” procedure.

Scheduled Maintenance

In the case of a “schedule maintenance” procedure,  the oil and filter are replaced, tires rotated, and certain bolts are checked for tightness.  If the vehicle is equipped with a “cabin filter” (filters the inside air) it may be replaced if necessary.  Money is saved by purchasing it from the parts department and installing it yourself, if you are so inclined.  It usually is located behind the glove box.

The rest of the “required” items are inspection for wear.  This is a good opportunity for service facilities to promote “recommended services” such as various flushes, which are not “required” by the manufacturer and sometimes “forbidden.”  Some vehicles require specific fluids that the service facility may not have, thus, jeopardizing the proper operation of the component.

In the case of high mileage vehicles, a transmission flush is not recommended because the new transmission fluid will have new additives which can break down the adhesive bonding of the clutch disks to the clutch plates resulting in the transmission slipping or other transmission failure after a few thousand miles.  In addition, there is a good possibility that particles will find their way into the valve body causing shift valves to stick.  If the transmission is operating normally, let it continue to do so, just make sure the transmission fluid level is correct and if necessary, add the correct fluid type required by the manufacturer.

Important Tip:

After an oil change, it is best to check the engine oil level to confirm the drain plug, oil filter was tightened, and the oil cap reinstalled as not to leak.  If this is intimidating, at least check for leaks on the ground under where the vehicle was parked.  If you find fresh oil on the ground and you suspect it is coming from your vehicle, return the vehicle promptly to the service facility.  If your vehicle is leaking oil, eventually it will leak low enough for the engine to encounter oil starvation and you could lose your engine by it seizing up.

Tune-up Maintenance 

When the mileage or time frame has arrived for parts such as spark plugs to be replaced, service facilities will take the opportunity to recommend that your vehicle needs a “tune-up” which actually is replacing the spark plugs, pcv valve, air filter, oil/oil filter change and rotating the tires.

The term “major tune-up” implies a higher level “tune-up” when actually its an opportunity to promote a fuel injector cleaning, coolant, transmission, power steering and brake flushes.

Let’s examine these items:

Fuel injector cleaning:  The objective is to run a strong cleaning solvent through the fuel injectors to clean the orifices to ensure a good spray pattern.  Actually, fuel cleaning detergent additives is blended in fuels and the cleaning can be accomplished by using a can of Chevron Techron and using it with a full tank of gas according to the instructions.  Furthermore, the manufacturer does not require a fuel system flush.  However, if a fuel injector is clogged, a fuel injector cleaning would help unclog it.

Coolant flush: The coolant used by manufacturers is an extended long-life type and does not require frequent changing.  On older vehicles, the pressure from a coolant flush could possibly cause problems such as causing the heater core to start leaking.  The manufacturer usually does not require a coolant flush.

Power Steering flush: This is an unnecessary expense for most cars and could cause steering problems if air is not completely purged from the system after a flush.  However, if you have a jerky motion when turning the steering wheel or a whining noise that increases with an increase in engine speed, a power steering flush may help before you commence to replacing the power steering pump.  Manufacturers do not require it and some cars have electric power steering, which does not have power steering fluid, thus nothing to flush.

Brake fluid flush:  This one flush is a good deal after the vehicle is 5 years old due to moisture entering the brake system through humidity.  Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means that it absorbs moisture, which is bad for the braking system because it lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid and compromises braking action.  Ideally the system should remain closed.

None of these service procedures the manufacturer requires, therefore, it is a “recommended” service promoted by the service facility and not “required” by the manufacturer.

Things that may not be in your scheduled maintenance book:

• ·         Battery cables and post cleaning (if battery is disconnected, make sure a supplemental battery source is connected to keep various memory settings).

• ·         Battery top cleaning

• ·         Battery hold down secure (keeps the battery from moving)

• ·         Alternator regulator over-charging which will produce excess charging gas, shorten the life of the battery and moisten the top of the battery with battery acid and form corrosion on the battery posts.

• ·         Windshield washer nozzle aim (sometimes the water spray will go over the roof)

• ·         Air conditioning water drain hose is draining properly (or water may come on your passenger side carpet area)

• ·         Headlamps, tail lamps, turn signals, back up lights, license plate lights, dome light(s) and side marker lamps are working.

• ·         Water pump vent hole coolant leakage inspection

• ·         Horn operation.

• ·         Spare tire pressure check.

• ·         All fluid level inspection, leaks, and unacceptable wiring routing or interference contact (wires, hoses rubbing).

Conclusion:

The main objective of performing scheduled maintenance is to prevent component failure or poor vehicle performance due to neglect.

Keep in mind, even with performing schedule maintenance and doing everything correct, there still can be component failure or poor vehicle performance.  There may be possible design flaws, manufacturing errors or damage occurring during transportation.

Before purchasing any vehicle, it is advisable to do your due diligence and research known issues to the vehicle you are considering.  You can do this by using a search engine such as Google.  Enter the year, make, model and add reviews and forums in the search field. 

For example: 2012 Toyota Camry reviews and forums then push the Enter button.

This will give results from professional vehicle evaluators and forums where people are discussing the model you entered.  You can also do a search for recalls, technical service bulletins, fuel economy, crash data, etc.

Here are some links to automotive websites that have a wealth of information

Edmunds.com:  http://www.edmunds.com/

Kelly Blue Book: http://www.kbb.com/

The Car Show:  http://www.thecarshow.com/index.htm

Car Talk:  http://www.cartalk.com/

The next topic is: The Purpose of the Check Engine Light, and what to do if it comes on.

Should you use "Factory" or "Aftermarket" Parts?

Question: Are genuine factory parts always better than aftermarket parts?

To adequately answer this question requires providing information concerning the source of both factory and aftermarket parts.

First let’s establish the fact that car companies do not directly manufacture their own parts.

Back in the day, Ford Motor Company corporate management style was what is referred to as “vertical integration” which is when a company’s supply chain is produced by one owner.  An example of this was the Ford River Rouge Complex in Dearborn, Michigan where Ford produced their own parts for their vehicles.  In other words, within the Rouge complex, all the car parts were produced and finished cars rolled off the assembly line. 

Fast forward to today and to the best of my knowledge, no automotive company directly produce all of the parts needed for the manufacture of their automobiles.

Therefore, another company produces parts the auto manufacturers use to assemble their vehicles.  Let’s take a look at the parts scene.

There are two categories of replacement parts for a vehicle:

1. Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM):  These are parts that are produced by a designated company which makes parts according to the specification of the manufacturer and are installed at the factory during the assembly process.  They are also sold as replacement parts which are obtained primarily from the dealership.  They usually are an exact duplicate of the original part the vehicle came with unless it has been superseded by an updated part.  Here are the Pro’s and Con’s of OEM parts: 

Pros:

·         Ease of selecting parts (according to model only one available)

·         Greater assurance of quality

·         A warranty is provided for most parts

Cons:

·         Usually more expensive

·         Primary competition are other dealers

·         Quality is not always superior

To automatically replace all parts with OEM parts is a safe but expensive method that will not always ensure satisfactory results.  For example, some aftermarket parts may be better than factory parts, such as: brake pads (better anti- squealing), filters, shifter levers, speakers, and parts that have been improved from the factory specifications.

     2.  Aftermarket:  These are parts that were produced by companies which were not the original manufacturer but were designed to fit and perform as good or better than the original.  The quality of these parts can range from very good to very poor which is why you must know which parts and maker can be used and which parts should be OEM.  Generally speaking, large name brand companies will produce good parts and be priced significantly lower than OEM parts.  However, some parts are not available as aftermarket parts and you’ll have to purchase OEM parts.  To play it safe, most major electrical parts you purchase should be OEM parts unless you are convinced otherwise.  In addition, body parts would be included in this category, although, some insurance companies may have a surcharge to your policy if you want OEM parts.  Here are the pros and cons of aftermarket parts:

            Pros: 

·         Less expensive

·         Quality equal or better (from name brand companies)

·         More variety to choose from (competition reduces price)

·         Availability  (many sources to purchase from)

Cons:

·         Quality varies widely  (inferior materials,   inaccurate dimensions)

·         Overwhelming selection

·         May not have a warranty

Summary:

The decision to use OEM parts or Aftermarket parts is determined by the customer and their mechanic.  If you don’t mind paying a significantly higher price and want to play it safe, use OEM parts.  In this case, you can still reduce the price of the part by locating it on the internet and purchasing it from sources selling OEM parts (such as competing dealers, OEM suppliers or EBay.)

However, if a lower price is the most important thing, then aftermarket parts will help you achieve your goal.  In addition, some aftermarket parts come with a life-time warranty, therefore, you only have to purchase it once and after that, you can exchange the part for a new one if failure occurs (within the warranty terms.)

This especially works well for brake disc pads or brake shoes, since they are a consumable item and its only a matter of time before they will have to be replaced.  Just be sure to keep the receipts in your glove box and don’t let the brake pad material wear down to the steel plate or you will void the life-time warranty.

It is in your best interest to establish a good relationship with the following:

• Your vehicles’ dealership service advisor (try to keep the same person.)
• Your vehicles’ dealership parts department (try to keep the same person.)
• Locate and retain a qualified personal mechanic to coordinate the work that he/she or the dealership technician will do.
• A good aftermarket parts store (NAPA is one, locate on the internet or phone book for your area.)

Make sure you keep all receipts together for returns and to be able to document parts that have been replaced.  This will also allow you to sell your vehicle at a higher price if you can prove that certain parts have been replaced. 

Finally, for your information, I’m writing an ebook entitled: “Owning a Car on the Cheap” which will cover many topics and information on acquiring, maintaining and selling your vehicle.  If you would like to sign up on the presale list, please send me an email requesting to add your name.  The release date is by September 30, 2012.  My email address is: owningacaronthecheap@yahoo.com

Well, I hope this information will assist you in making the decision that is right for you.

Next topic is:   What is a tune-up?

Can You Afford to Repair your Vehicle?

Repairing your vehicle can be expensive, especially if your goal is to maintain safe transportation.

I want to be as realistic as possible in reaching a compromise in addressing the dilemma of not having sufficient funds to repair your vehicle.  Many people do not have access to public transportation; therefore, it is not an option.

It is not necessary to repair everything that goes wrong immediately.

New technology:  Many sophisticated options are standard equipment on various vehicles.  The value of the following equipment verses cost effectiveness is debatable, especially for those who live in dry areas.  Here is a list of some of the sophisticated equipment that is standard equipment (except NAV unit) on many vehicles:

• ·        ABS (anti-lock braking system): Allows the driver to steer around objects on snow or ice by preventing wheel lock up.

• ·        TPS (tire pressure-monitoring system): Alerts the driver when a tire is low on air pressure.

• ·        TCS (traction control system): Limits a wheel from spinning on slippery surfaces.

• ·        SRS (supplemental restraint system – airbags): Inflates airbag(s) during a frontal or side impact collision.

• ·        Factory Navigation: Determines how to get to your destination or  locates points of interests.

If any of this equipment malfunctions, it will likely cost you a few hundred to a few thousand dollars.  Although this equipment has a place, it has nothing to do with safely transporting you from Point A to Point B.  It is my opinion that the majority of vehicles never have an occasion to deploy an air bag or activate the ABS system.  Therefore, consider if you want to sacrifice urgent needs for immediately repairing this equipment.  You may want to repair it at an appropriate time that is suitable for your budget.

Next topic: Should You Use Factory or After-market Parts?